All about electronic valves and hi-fi
Finally after many years, I managed to document this great PCB. If you already have this PCB and want the build guide and BOM please let me know.
Here is an extract of the build guide for the ones who are interested in this circuit:
Continue reading “Cap Multiplier PCB: build guide and BOM”Here is a very nice build from Dan Kercher on his contraption of the 300B amplifier with auto bias. The driver is an EF86 with SiC diode biasing, the topology is a hybrid mu-follower and a source follower drives the output stage. Filaments are DC with Rod Coleman’s board:
More details can be found below:
Hi Ale, I wanted to thank you for all of your PCBs. I just finished a project that uses your Gyrators, SiC bias boards, and SiC Source Followers. I'm so happy with the results. Details posted on Audio Asylum. https://www.audioasylum.com/forums/tubediy/messages/27/276814.html Cheers, Dan
After a long time, decided to update the PCB of the LL1943 SUT to provide extra flexibility on the grounding connection. This is in essence to ensure no ground loops and noise when either using balanced or un-balanced cabling from the cartridge into the PCB:
The additional jumpers are in line with the recommendations from the Datasheet. Here is the diagram:
For a fixed connection (like in most of the cases once preamp has been tuned/optimised) you can replace the jumpers by solid core wire jumpers soldered to the pad for best connection and performance.
This PCB is also for the LL1933. Basically is the same SUT but with 1+1:8+8 instead of 1+1:16+16 windings.
I made a small batch (I won’t need more than 2 or 4! myself) so the remaining will go on first-come-first-serve basis.
I think a gain of about 130-140 should be ok. Perhaps if I get around in adding the 6SF5 stage then it may be good enough.
So this got me thinking. Of course I have on my list 2 driver tests:
Surely you’re as tired as I’m with COVID-19. One of the best things I can do to distract my mind is to keep myself away from social media. Every stone you turn, there is COVID or a statement about it. I won’t moan as I have a job for now and a healthy family. Some members of my family were infected but nothing major. I can only say is that the world has change. And so my day to day life looking after the young family whilst working is a real challenge. Starting my fifth week of lockdown, I have to distract somehow my mind at times, otherwise will go mad.
It’s been a while since I experimented with preamps again. I settled as a permanent setup with my 01a/ER801a which I love. However, I wanted to continue with my experiments so I built a new Mule, let’s call it “Mule 2” for now. It’s based out of multiple PCBs which simplifies the construction process and reduces build time:
In the process of rebuilding my old 300B amplifier, I decided to make a new filament power supply. It all came up around the components I had at hand, so it could’ve been improved but that meant extra cost:
I have a pair of custom-made JMS transformers with multi-taps secondaries. This helps me tweaking the right output voltage. Anyhow, any 15V transformer would do. Perhaps you want 14V to ensure you don’t dissipate too much on the filament regulators (e.g. Rod Coleman regulators)
I used my flexible LT supply PCB which allowed me to build this in less than 1 hour. I also used some existing chokes made in the UK by “Spirit” which are ok for this purpose. The Lundahls are in use, so can’t reuse them:
I used some SOT-128-2 schottky rectifiers but any other should work as well. Resistors are wirewound and the CMR choke is what I had in stock as well. A simple 15mH/3A should do fine.
The output measured well at 9V with a 6R load which dragged 1.5A. A bit more than the 300B but should be a good indication of performance. Also ripple level is good at 2.5mVrms. The rest will be cleaned up by the regulator itself 🙂
After few tests and revisions (Rev 04) I updated the capacitor multiplier board I developed time ago
A friend from Canada ordered a pair of boards and I used the opportunity to test the newly arrived hybrid mu-follower (aka as gyrator) Rev08 PCBs. He will be using these boards in the 300B design posted here.
If you have a small room and high-efficiency speakers, then keep reading. If not, you can still enjoy reading about probably the best sounding output valve in my view. The 45. I wrote about it few times and have to say, it’s still one of the best. Better than a 300B but unfortunately can do only 2W. You can use it in Push-Pull and is superb. Have a look at this.